DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Norway | 
A #foodandlit tour of #Norway would not be complete without recognizing the bunad, the national costume. The designs differ based on the area of the country the family is from. This is the American Girl doll bunad we bought from Ingebretsen‘s in Minnesota. 😁 Notice trim on the apron is Hardanger embroidery, which is common on bunads in certain parts of the country. They can be quite different and very beautiful. Men have coordinated costumes.
Much of #Norway has been left off our #foodandlit tour, like southern cities of Stavanger & Kristiansand & in the far north, Tromso. Alas, I haven‘t visited those places (yet). Today we go as far south as I‘ve ever been in this beautiful country, Bygland. Here, it‘s quite normal to see snow in the summer, grass and trees growing on roofs, & ancient mills as a matter of course. Tomorrow a pause for my daughter‘s graduation, then wrap up in Bergen.
Fusa is on the eastern shore of the Fusafjorden, the water you see here. Here‘s the family on a lookout perch, my son and daughter closest to the camera. Their cousins can just jump in a little rowboat (as Magnus is top right) any time they please and sail into the fjord. Bottom left is a bird‘s eye view of the farm, the white house, and red barn. The tiny figure in red bottom right is another cousin who raced ahead. #foodandlit #Norway
Husband‘s sister has a farm (rather than the typical Norwegian who has a cabin in the mountains as a 2nd home, they have a farm) in Fusa. We are looking here at the mountains just across the street from the farm. The bitty guy is my son when he was about 3 (he‘s now almost a high school sophomore) walking with his oldest Norwegian cousin. Yes, the family is going to hike to the top of these mountains coming up next. #foodandlit #Norway
Littens, I‘d like to introduce you to Borghild, husband‘s Mormor (grandmother or literally mother‘s mother). On my first visit to #Norway, my husband‘s brother sat between she and me for hours and translated for us as she taught me Hardanger embroidery, a very difficult and precise cut thread method. Photos here are from a second visit when she continued to teach me. I‘ll always think of her when I see bleeding hearts, these are from her ⬇️
I will always remember Utne, #Norway for 2 things: this museum & to get there was the scariest road I‘d ever traveled. One must take a bustling, mostly single lane road up to the top of a mountain & back down again shared with oncoming cars, delivery trucks, cyclists, & herds of sheep on countless blind hairpin turns on the edge of the darned mountain. 😰 The museum featured 2 ancient Norwegian crafts, the Hardanger violin and embroidery. ⬇️
Our next stop on our #foodandlit tour of #Norway was supposed to be Lindås where my husband spent his teen years. Unfortunately I couldn‘t find that batch of photos so all I have is this photo that husband and I found in a book at a bookstore (because yes we visit lots of bookstores in Norway), whose only photo of Lindås was of his house when he lived there! Here he points to his bedroom.
Osterøy is one of Europe‘s largest inland islands surrounded by waters of 4 fjords. I remember when this bridge was built and opened in 1997, meaning its inhabitants no longer had to rely solely on ferries to reach the mainland. These photos were probably taken the year it opened. Sadly I cannot find my photos of our visit to the historic farm Havrå, which was quite fun to see unique farming methods on mountainous terrain in #Norway. #foodandlit
Top photos when the kids were little with grandparents on the gravel path to walk behind the waterfall. Bottom photos looking down from behind the waterfall after the tourist upgrades in the 2010s. In the distance you can see a visitors center and parking lot. The last time there were several tour buses! It even has its own magnet now. The Steinsdalfossen, just outside Norheimsund on the way to Bergen, is fun and unique. #foodandlit #Norway
Things have changed so much over the decades in #Norway, just outside of Norheimsund, as it embraces massive tourism. We‘d visit this waterfall on every trip there to take the locals‘ rocky uneven path behind it and look out on the world. Left photos were from my first two visits, right: from one of the most recent visits—paved over and fenced in. #foodandlit
Norheimsund is on the north end of the Hardangerfjord. The fjord reaches 111 miles from the Atlantic Ocean into the mountainous interior of #Norway. From another vantage point in Norheimsund, if you squint, you can see the Folgefonna glacier topping the distant mountains. A famous rock formation “trolltunga” is in a national park in the vicinity but it takes a 17-mile hike over rough terrain and back to see it. So I haven‘t. #foodandlit
Norheimsund is a great town where we love to stay. It‘s a short drive to husband‘s dad‘s cabin, it‘s got the best sewing shop in #Norway, & a maritime museum with activities for kids. I always buy my Hardanger kits & pattern books when we‘re there. Top right is a sculpture made & donated by a Finnish artist. It‘s hidden on a short but steep hill. And coming this weekend, I‘ll share one of the most touristy waterfalls around! #foodandlit
In 2013, husband took his bike to #Norway and rode the Bergen to Voss 100-mile bike ride with his brother. When we left Voss, we were taking the route he took going the opposite direction. So where we are going down in the car in these photos, he was going up! Pretty amazing terrain for someone who could only train in the Texas hill country. #foodandlit
This monument is one of the coolest things in Voss, #Norway and I was able to cajole the family into this awesome photo. We all wished they‘d had bottles of the Voss water to hold up for the pic! We are right by Lake Vangsvatnet here. #foodandlit
Finally we get to Voss, #Norway. The Fleischer‘s Hotel, overlooking Lake Vangsvatnet and mountains in the distance, is a huge landmark in the small city & was built in 1864. We didn‘t get to stay here though. Family suites were across the street in rows of less than glamorous buildings. The Voss water you may be able to find at your local grocer, and it truly is from Voss, Norway. On special occasions we buy some & reminisce. #foodandlit
In a single afternoon we go from the green rolling hills of Vik, #Noway, to the bare barren mountains above the tree line. And just like you‘d find in any other crowded busy tourist site (she says sarcastically), there‘s a souvenir shop selling all things reindeer amongst other things. Son fell in love with the hat, so yes that was his souvenir. Sadly it doesn‘t fit anymore. #foodandlit
Yesterday was a lovely interlude in our tour of #Norway to celebrate its birthday. Today we are back on the road to Balestrand. What can you say about a gorgeous village with this view from your hotel balcony? We walked a bit of the town. I never hesitate to snap photos of the gorgeous flowers (even in someone‘s yard much to the family‘s dismay), which are abundant here in the summer. #foodandlit
Finally in honor of Constitution Day the family is going to play either Norwegian Yahtzee or the Viking Game for the evening. #foodandlit #Norway
We celebrated Constitution Day with a traditional meal: kjottkaker (Norwegian meatballs), poteter (boiled potatoes), and surkal (Norwegian sauerkraut). We used our antique Norwegian Farmers Rose dishes (a beautiful gift from the husband‘s mormar) and our Norwegian Maya utensils (from his mother). Cupcakes and Kvikk Lunsj for dessert. The meal took us all back to #Norway for awhile and it was really lovely. We should do this every year but ⬇️
Getting ready for our Constitution Day Celebration tonight! These goodies will follow a dinner of kjottkaker, boiled potatoes, peas, and a salad. Who‘s joining us? #foodandlit #Norway
Here‘s a link to a lovely video on Instagram celebrating this unusual (because gatherings are still prohibited) but beautiful holiday in Norway: https://www.instagram.com/p/CO-FDWPlehT/?igshid=1vd71b3aw5k8w
Reminder you can find Norwegian recipes on our #foodandlit Pinterest site: https://pin.it/1FccKpB
Skillingsboller are one of the first Norwegian recipes my husband made for me when we married and we always look for the best when we are in #Norway. The above recipe can also be found here if you don‘t have the Pinterest app:
https://findingtimeforcooking.com/desserts-sweets/norwegian-skillingsboller-cinn...
A couple of random photos while I direct us on our zig zag tour of western #Norway. In the next few days we will head to Balestrand, all the way to the far left on this map. We will then go on an overland route to Voss that will take us extremely high into more mountains. Bottom left, daughter found a product with her name in the Kaupanger grocery store, and me mugging for a selfie on the Kaupanger-Gudvangen ferry. #foodandlit
The 3-hour ferry trip from Kaupanger to Gudvangen is magnificent. We enjoyed every minute. We lost count of waterfalls fairly early on but I still kept snapping photos. As you can see sometimes the mountains were so tall I couldn‘t get the entire waterfall, or sky and fjord in the same photo. #Norway #foodandlit
Waiting for the ferry (top left) to take us on the almost 3-hour ride from Kaupanger to Gudvangen, #Norway. Along the way we saw dolphins (all I could ever catch were the fins), and these twists and turns I was certain we‘d not fit through. The latter (bottom right) is particularly difficult. Passengers are called to attention to witness it. We were inside by this point eating ice cream so the photo is through the window. #foodandlit
Video of clearing of the road in #Norway so it can open May 20.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CO6R9LwFcmI/?igshid=oftyyobc9se6
#foodandlit @Catsandbooks @Butterfinger @AnneCecilie
A little reminder of where we‘ve been and where we‘re headed. Top right is Sjolden (remember, covered in fog?) and to its left is the Jostedal Glacier. Down that branch of the Sognefjorden, you can see Luster, the Feigum waterfall we hiked up to see, Urnes and its stave church, cross the water to Solvern (not on this map), and drive to Kaupanger where we saw our next stave church today. Tomorrow we‘ll follow the red line on a ferry to Gudvangen.
Gather up your 1000 kroner (about $140 at a normal exchange rate) for the family car, two adults, and up to 3 kids, and make your reservations, because tomorrow we will catch this almost 3-hour ferry ride with a view of a lifetime. The ferry will take us from Kaupanger to Gudvangen. #Norway #foodandlit
Heading south from Urnes by water, you‘ve got a couple of ferry rides ahead of you. The first is on the Urnes ferry that takes you on a short hop over to the lovely village of Solvorn. One really must learn to read ferry schedules and to know the busy times. Get there early or you won‘t fit on the boat or get there late and miss the boat and sometimes that can leave you waiting a very long time. #foodandlit #Norway
Typical drive in western #Norway
https://www.instagram.com/p/COz0huNDvWR/?igshid=j402n6dzkbqy
#foodandlit @Catsandbooks @Butterfinger @AnneCecilie
You haven‘t really tasted brunost (brown cheese), which in its first form is geitost (goat cheese), unless you‘ve met the goats at the top of the world where it‘s made. Brunost is now a mix of cow and goat milk but in its purest form, buy it here. One goat tried to hitch a ride with us (I have a photo of its head butting my leg into the car). And I remember the sheer joy of my mother-in-law & husband getting their hands on the real stuff! #Norway
There are two ways to depart for southern regions from the Luster area in #Norway: by land or by sea. Today you‘ll get a “taste” of the route by land. By land takes us very very high into the mountains, well above the tree line. Ascending or descending mountains requires endless hairpin turns like these. Seeing herds of reindeer and their Sami keepers at this altitude is not unusual. #foodandlit
Finally a very special treat coming up tomorrow from our tour in #Norway for #foodandlit. Any guesses what this is, or what it might be?
Not a stave church, but the Dale Church in Luster dates to the 1200s. I was very excited to see that the alter was covered by a cloth with Hardanger embroidery (white cloth on left), which is a type of embroidery near and dear to me, and which I will share more about this month. The ancient artwork behind the ancient bench speaks for itself. The church is still the active Luster parish church. #foodandlit #Norway
While in Luster, we hiked up to this waterfall, Feigumfossen. Top left, left to right: me and my mother-in-law about where I was ready to give up, proof I made it anyway, the waterfall, and a gratuitous photo of my sister-in-law‘s precious puppy collie Lady, the first (& only) dog I lost my heart to, playing in front of their house in Luster. #foodandlit #Norway
If you‘re in Luster, a village near the end of Sognefjorden, and you look across the fjord, this is what you‘ll see. Another settlement. My husband‘s brother and his dear wife lived in Luster for awhile in the 1990s so on one of our early trips to #Norway, the mother-in-law drove us to Luster to visit. We did so many lovely things on this trip, like visiting the glacier from previous posts & more adventures shortly. #foodandlit
We are on our way to Luster on a long ferry ride on Sognefjorden. Do you see the dark mound just center a bit offshore? That‘s a Viking mound: where a once important Viking was buried. This is the only one that is certain to be one that I‘ve seen, but I believe they do dot the landscape especially in western #Norway off the fjords. #foodandlit
To give you an idea of how out in the country Sjolden is, here‘s a one-car road (for both directions) into a rough unlit tunnel on the way out of town. Most tunnels (they are countless in western #Norway) are feats of engineering, well-lit, etc.—this one, not so much. If you meet a car coming the other direction, one of you keeps backing until you reach room in the road to let the other pass. #foodandlit @Catsandbooks @Butterfinger @AnneCecilie
Bad weather in #Norway! Sjolden is at the very tip of a branch off a large fjord, a tiny bit of a place with a nice hotel and a small grocery store. This is heavy fog over the tip of the fjord. We had to drive out of Sjolden to get out of the fog. #foodandlit @Catsandbooks @Butterfinger @AnneCecilie
These last photos of the Jostedalbreen Glacier should break your heart as it did mine when I witnessed what had become of it over the years. The top photo is from our visit around 1996-97. The bottom photo is from 2019 (same angle but even a bit closer). Can you tell the difference? 😭 is it possible to mourn a glacier? #foodandlit #Norway
The fam hiked across very very rough terrain so I took their photo from the little boat on the lake on my way to the glacier. We met up at the glacier. And yes, our fam was featured on AAA‘s website! With the right equipment folks do hike on the glacier. I have photos of folks hiking it but they look smaller than ants. We contented ourselves with just touching it. #foodandlit #Norway
Today we visit Jostedalbreen National Park. It‘s highlight is the Jostedalbreen Glacier, which you can see in this map a little below the top right, reaching into the lake. After visiting the visitor center (it‘s new, it wasn‘t there the first time I came here), you drive down the road to the right of the river/stream to a parking area. From there you can either hike or take a boat to the glacier. Our family split and did both. #foodandlit #Norway
Here‘s a lovely Norwegian song accompanying a stormy ride over the Atlantic Road:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tp9JZrCrrQY
#foodandlit #Norway
The most direct route from Trondheim to Alesund takes you over the infamous Atlantic Road, ranked on the 5 or 10 most dangerous roads in the world. Its bridges connecting an archipelago are on the North Sea where weather and waves are unpredictable. You can google some fascinating footage of driving the road. Our trip over the bridges was uneventful other than the massive lines in the tourist center before reaching this bridge. #foodandlit #Norway
A reminder of where we‘ve been and where we‘re going for our tour of #Norway for #foodandlit. I sure hope you are enjoying it. Tomorrow will bring us to Alesund, another picturesque city along the mountainous west coast. Along the way will travel one of the most dangerous roads in the world!
Descending the mountains from Lom is a test of fun and terror (as in ascending), with blind hairpin turns and a single lane shared by cars going both directions. From here our trip won‘t make a lot of sense if you try to figure it out on a map. There are few if any direct routes in western Norway thanks to mountains, fjords, & glaciers. Also the photos from this point will be from visits from the 1990s to present. Next up: Trondheim!
Leaving Lom takes us to the highest elevation we ever traveled in #Norway. Here we are in the heat of the summer and the snow beside the road was probably 8-10 feet at least. We stopped to admire the ancient cairns and just froze—not prepared for this level of cold. #foodandlit #Norway
I interrupt our virtual tour of #Norway to give you, well, Norwegian food. Our kjottkaker (Norwegian version of meatballs but literally meatcakes) are in the fridge. #foodandlit
We are touring #Norway for #foodandlit in May for a reason! Constitution Day!! Ingebretsen‘s got celebration items all ready for us!! Link here: https://www.ingebretsens.com/shop/culture/holidays/syttende-mai-may-17
Put on your bunad and prepare your best Norwegian feast and meet you here for the party on May 17!
After a quick stop in Ringebu, we are on the road again to Lom, enjoying a picnic for lunch. With few restaurants and the cost of food sky high, careful shopping and planning in grocery stores* helps. There‘s always a place to picnic. Note the color of water: you can always tell when you are “near” glacier melt by this color. Yes, we will eventually touch a glacier. #foodandit #Norway
*We pack a portable food cooler from home for this purpose.
