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Worn
Worn: A People's History of Clothing | Sofi Thanhauser
34 posts | 5 read | 7 to read
A sweeping and captivatingly told history of clothing and the stuff it is made ofan unparalleled deep-dive into how everyday garments have transformed our lives, our societies, and our planet A masterpiece . . . panoramic and richly particularGeraldine Brooks, bestselling author of Years of Wonder In this panoramic social history, Sofi Thanhauser brilliantly tells five storiesLinen, Cotton, Silk, Synthetics, Woolabout the clothes we wear and where they come from, illuminating our world in unexpected ways. She takes us from the opulent court of Louis Quatorze to the labor camps in modern-day Chinese-occupied Xinjiang. We see how textiles were once dyed with lichen, shells, bark, saffron, and beetles, displaying distinctive regional weaves and knits, and how the modern Western garment industry has refashioned our attire into the homogenous and disposable uniforms popularized by fast fashion brands. Thanhauser makes clear how the clothing industry has become one of the planet's worst polluters, and how it relies on chronically underpaid and exploited laborers. But she also shows us how micro-communities, textile companies, and clothing makers in every corner of the world are rediscovering ancestral and ethical methods for making what we wear. Drawn from years of intensive research and reporting from around the world, and brimming with fascinating stories, Worn reveals to us that our clothing comes not just from the countries listed on the tags or ready-made from our factories. It comes, as well, from deep in our histories.
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review
Robotswithpersonality
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Pickpick

An incredible work. Thanhauser writes with passion and clarity, and particularly grabbed me in her method of organizing the subject matter. Moving from Linen to Cotton to Synthetics to Wool, the author moves through the historical record of fibre, fabric, and clothing production with a focus on the humans affected by various developments in this field. 1/?

Robotswithpersonality 2/? Heartbreaking but not surprising, minority groups - women and people of colour - have consistently borne the brunt of changes which had more to do with small groups of people keeping power and profit than the the touted improvements to technology or society. 4mo
Robotswithpersonality 3/? The history of clothing is bound up in the oppression of women, slavery, colonialism, genocide, gutting of unions and local trades, globalization to the detriment of all but a few, becoming ever more detrimental to the environment as well.
Thanhauser addresses a number of key events I was previously familiar with, but also introduced me to a number of realities that had me newly appalled.
4mo
Robotswithpersonality 4/? Her introduction under the Wool section of hope in the form of small producers, collectives and people revitalizing sustainable fashion and fibre art traditions (and sheep breeds!) which have been threatened is tempered by her vigilance in pointing out that it requires more than niche interests to overturn the toxicity of the vast majority of the clothing industry: toxic to people and the planet. 4mo
Robotswithpersonality 5/? This is an exceptionally well-written book that spans an impressive timeline, and concisely identifies the many, many ways producing clothing has changed and not for the better, but makes it clear that the first step is identifying the problem, and if you can do that and not look away, a solution, change, is possible, and the more people who read these things and take action the bigger the change could be. ❤️
4mo
Robotswithpersonality 6/6 ⚠️Discussion of enslavement, displacement and death of Navajo people, mention of military coup, SA, racism, misogyny, violent suppression of union efforts, suicide 4mo
11 likes5 comments
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Robotswithpersonality
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Today's 'scratched my brain just right' sentence.

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Robotswithpersonality
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Cannot happen in isolation.

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Robotswithpersonality
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Okay, that got me. 🥺🥹😭

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Robotswithpersonality
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Travel size! 🐑

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Robotswithpersonality
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Craft tradition as telling of history hits so much harder crossing from ancient tales to modern times.

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Robotswithpersonality
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Big middle finger to the age of obsolescence. Can we have more stuff like this?

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Robotswithpersonality
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Warp vs. Weft. What are the chances I finally remember the difference after this explanation.

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Robotswithpersonality
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Everybody say thank you OSHA (or your nation's equivalent)! 😬

Bookwormjillk Yikes! 4mo
7 likes1 comment
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Robotswithpersonality
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It's not that complicated, it is that fucked.

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Robotswithpersonality
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“Hustler-scholars“ is an epic designation, can we please make this a thing?!

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Robotswithpersonality
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“One woman carried a baby in one arm and a big knotted stick in the other, “
Get 'im, mama. 💪🏻👶🏻

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Robotswithpersonality
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Mass-produced, ready-made garments “FIT WRONG IN REAL LIFE,“
Just a reminder: You are not the wrong shape, the clothing industry on a grand scale is fucked.

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Robotswithpersonality
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Bring. 👏🏻 It. 👏🏻BACK. 👏🏻💉

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Robotswithpersonality
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Today I learned...✂️🪡

Ruthiella Interesting! 🤔 4mo
8 likes1 comment
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Robotswithpersonality
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“shop windows for their husband's wealth.“
“... women's clothing defined them as passive objects.“
Just another reason to champion unisex utilitarian designs and gender fuckery in couture, so anyone can wear anything somber or pretty without it being part of a heteronormative subtex-tile language of power. 😖

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Robotswithpersonality
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Oh look, another reason to hate classism: it's the foundation of accelerated fashion cycles and conspicuous consumption of clothing. 🙄

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Robotswithpersonality
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The man championed high heels and stockings because he knew he had great legs. Truly a kingly move. 👑😁👠

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Robotswithpersonality
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To absolutely no one's surprise, the original stigma against outfit repeating was economically driven.
Note, however, that at the time, it supported local artisans, and there were only TWO fashion seasons in a year. 😑

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Robotswithpersonality
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“the most literal revolution“
I see what you did there. 😁

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Robotswithpersonality
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OMG, thank you internet!
I present to you: the sheep plant, aka Medieval European conception of the origins of cotton.

Dilara I love this! 4mo
13 likes1 comment
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Robotswithpersonality
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Somebody, please tell me these images have been digitized.
I will also happily take modern reproductions.
Show me the sheep plant! 🐑🌱

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Robotswithpersonality
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Wh- Hell of an answer Edwin! 😯🫢
⚠️Mention of suicide

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Robotswithpersonality
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Immiserate: Cause to become poor or impoverished.
No surprise, it shares a root word with miserable. 😖

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Robotswithpersonality
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Love the imagery, Thanhauser's way with words.

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Robotswithpersonality
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“dazzled by the beauty“ 😍

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REPollock
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Bailedbailed

I‘m bailing on this. My library loan ended before I finished and the line to get it again is so long, I just don‘t have the patience to do it again. Interesting and informative but also very depressing.

Cathythoughts Great photo ♥️👌🏻 1y
19 likes1 comment
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Bethanyroe
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Pickpick

What an interesting concept and subject! We talk so often about carbon emissions and waste‘s negative impact on the planet—which is true—but rarely talk about manufacturing, planting, crops, etc and that effect on our society and pollution.

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Lindy
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Linen, cotton, silk, wool and petroleum: these materials are what our clothing is made from. Sofi Thanhauser has written a lively cultural history of textiles, filled with interesting—often sobering—facts. I enjoyed the audiobook very much. It is narrated by Rebecca Lowman.

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Lindy
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When we account for the water used to process, dye and finish the textile, it takes 20,000 litres of water to make a pair of jeans, enough to grow the wheat a person would need to bake a loaf of bread each week for a year.

TrishB My daughter told me this a few weeks ago- she‘s just finished her dissertation on water scarcity! 4y
jenniferw88 It was also a question on Richard Osman's House of Games! 4y
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Lindy
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Water consumption increased 6-fold over the 20th c, twice the population growth rate. Worldwide, agriculture uses more water than any other sector, well ahead of industrial & domestic consumption. But much of this agricultural water use isn‘t going toward food. It‘s going toward cotton. It takes 8,500 litres to make 1 kg of cotton, compared to 3,000 l to make 1 kg of rice, 1,350 l to make that amount of maize, or 900 l to make that much wheat.

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Lindy
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By 1959, 100 million Orlon sweaters were sold annually. By the decade‘s end, half of all women‘s sweaters in the US were made from Orlon.

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Lindy
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Fashions regularly commented on the politics of the moment, like the 1774 pouf à l‘innoculation, a headpiece that celebrated the vaccination of the king and helped promote the idea of vaccination.
(Internet image)

LeahBergen Is there a triple-shot headpiece? I‘ll wear one of those. 😉 4y
KathyR There was an article in the Atlantic Monthly on how this headpiece celebrated the vaccination of the king and his successors after the death of the previous king from smallpox. https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2015/01/how-fashion-defeated-t... 4y
Lindy @KathyR Thanks, Kathy. I had seen that article earlier when I was looking for a visual of the pouf. Interesting, isn‘t it? 4y
Lindy @LeahBergen 💉💉💉😁 4y
29 likes4 comments
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Lindy
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The first clothes were likely made of animal skins. Researchers using the DNA of lice have determined that humans most likely began clothing themselves in hides and pelts about 170,000 years ago.
(Internet image)

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