Forced to delay their harvest until relatively late in the year, farmers in Wuyi, in Fujian, sped up the packing process for the 'small grade' fourth and fifth leaves, lower quality than the three leaves of the first flush, by roasting them over pine-wood fires, inadvertently imparting to them a smoky aftertaste.
The locals thought it was awful, but soon found some foreigners to offload it on.
Lapu Mountain Small Grade' (lapu-shan xiao zhong)